Just in case you don't know, here is a pic of the noise filter that bolts to the engine bulkhead behind the carby. You can find these on other cars of the era too, like the Lancer and '94 Magna
G11 Tachometer Dash
The G11 has three styles of clusters in the dash:- the standard without tachometer, the deluxe one with a tachometer and the CXT turbo one with red markings and an extra "boost" lamp.
In response to members complaining about the tacho fault where the needle floats aimlessly we decided to strip one of the units down. OK the one we stripped actually works, but be buggered if I'm going hunting for a faulty one.
What this page should do, is to take away the fear of stripping your own cluster to find the fault. I suspect you will find it's loose screws that are the main culprits. Maybe its dry solder joints too. Make sure you give the main plug a good clean and thin smear some vaseline on the contacts. Look for corrosion on the brass/copper bits the screws clamp to and clean with very fine grit wet 'n dry paper.
As you thumb through the following pages take note of the comments, like what screws belong to what hole, the castellated standoffs, etc.
| Here's a full frontal view of the cluster | |
| and here's a naked rear end | |
| First step is to remove the warning lamps to free up the laminate. Then remove the clock setting knob | |
| this will allow you to split the housing by pushing on the six retaining tabs. So you end up with this bit | |
| You undo the five screws holding the tachometer into the housing. Note the screws sizes as you remove them | |
| This is the tachometer removed and a view of the five screw holes from the other side | |
| This is a potentially award winning pic (as all my snaps are). This is the tachometer | |
| Getting down and dirty we have removed the PCB from the moving assembly. Make sure you note the castellated brass standoffs. The jagged end bites into the plastic housing, not the PCB. | |
| If it gets the better of you, you can have a look at the meter coil by lifting the cap off. Just take note of the flats on the side of the cap, otherwise you will most likely break something when you reassemble the unit. | |
| Looky here. There is an adjustment pot to calibrate. At this stage I have not found any info for the onboard integrated circuit (us in the know call these DIL chips to sound smart). So I can't tell you if this will accommodate a 4 cylinder conversion....but if it's like a lot of tach circuits you might get away with adjusting it from the 96k ohms 3 cylinder setting down to 72k ohms for a 4 cylinder motor. | |
| And finally a circuit diagram I sketched up. Now I don't take any responsibility if it's got errors. Last night was a doozy and I drank too much, so it's up to the pointy heads and electronic gyro gearloose members to suss it out and provide any remedial amendments. | |
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Just in case you don't know, here is a pic of the noise filter that bolts to the engine bulkhead behind the carby. You can find these on other cars of the era too, like the Lancer and '94 Magna |
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