G10X Tachometer Dash
The G100 featured here is fraser_gtti's GTti.
Like many members Fraser got a little frustrated with the tacho fault where the needle floats aimlessly and decided to perform surgery.
So out came the cluster, the tacho assembly removed and the whole thing given a good talking too.
What this page should do, is to take away the fear of stripping your own cluster to find the fault. Suspects are loose screws and poor (dry) solder joints. Make sure you give the main plug a good clean and thin smear some vaseline on the contacts. Look for corrosion on the brass/copper bits the screws clamp to and clean with very fine grit wet 'n dry paper.
Click on the small pics to reveal a bigger one
| Here's a hole where the cluster used to be, showing the main plug. Somewhere in there is the speedo cable too, that is held on by a bezel nut. | |
| and here's a good shot of Frasier's hand with the cluster attached | |
| The cluster escutcheon makes a pretty good passenger, because it doesn't give you useless directions, nag you for a toilet stop and generally won't give you any lip. | |
| this is the tachometer assembly seperated from the cluster | |
| Don't let those squigly PCB tracks put you off. You need to look for bad solder joints, which usually take on a powdery look. | |
| This picture proves that nine comes after 8 | |
| This is the flip side of the PCB, with the components easily visible, The thing with lots of varnish insulated copper wires is the meter coil and is exposed after you remove the metal can that encloses it. | |
| A better shot of the copper wire coil. The thing to look for here is if the wire ends are broken or corroded where they are soldered to the posts. If you need to remake the joint, you must lightly sand off the varnish coating on the wire so the solder will stick. | |
| Here's a cluster from a Jap spec GTti. This one is cwone's and is fairly rare in Australia | |